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About Monaco
Monaco occupies 2.08 square kilometers, the second-smallest country in the world, on a cliff above the Mediterranean between Nice and the Italian border, and it has made more of those square kilometers than almost any place on earth: the Grand Prix runs through the actual streets each May, the Casino de Monte-Carlo anchors a legend the principality long ago outgrew, a third of the residents are millionaires, and the Grimaldi family has kept the entire arrangement sovereign since 1297 by being, in every century, more useful than absorbable.
The residence system is simpler than its reputation and more expensive than almost any other: there is no golden visa, no government investment schedule, no nomad product, just the carte de séjour, available to anyone over 16 who can demonstrate three things. Accommodation in Monaco, owned or leased for at least a year and sized honestly for the household. Financial self-sufficiency, which the law leaves undefined and the banking sector prices: a reference letter from a Monaco-licensed bank, customarily issued against deposits around 500,000 euros, with a million or more expected at some houses and for larger families, the money remaining yours throughout. And a clean record from every country of the past five years. Non-EEA nationals must first obtain a French long-stay Type D visa under the 1963 Franco-Monegasque convention, EEA citizens apply directly, everyone interviews with the Sûreté Publique, and processing runs roughly two to three months. The ladder ascends by residence: one-year temporary cards renewed annually, the three-year ordinary card after three years, and the ten-year privileged card after ten, which expects genuine presence approaching half the year; renewals at every tier check that Monaco is actually your life, utility bills and banking activity included, because a tax address without a lived address is the one arrangement the principality refuses. Citizenship is a separate universe: sovereign discretion, a decade or more, and the renunciation of every other passport.
The reason is the oldest tax fact in Europe: no personal income tax since 1869, no capital gains tax, no wealth tax, no property tax, inheritance free in the direct line, with exactly one carve-out, French nationals, taxed by France wherever in Monaco they live, under the 1963 treaty, and one quiet asterisk, Americans, whom Washington taxes regardless. The frame around the arithmetic: the world's densest police presence and camera lattice making arguably the safest streets anywhere, the world's most expensive housing making the deposit look modest, a de facto Schengen position that turns the residence card into a travel document, Nice airport seven minutes by helicopter, and a city-state that works precisely because it never pretends to be for everyone. The one working lane that needs no deposit is the water: the superyacht fleet crews up out of Port Hercule every season, though the crews themselves famously live in Nice and Antibes, where the rents permit.
Widening the search? If you are looking to expand your job hunt across Western Europe, take a look at France →, Italy →, and Spain →.
Cost of living
Monaco is the most expensive housing market on earth and the budget starts there: studios rent from 3,000 to 5,000 euros monthly, one-bedrooms run 5,000 to 9,000 and climb without apology, purchases average past 50,000 euros the square meter with one-bedrooms from roughly three million, and the twelve-month lease the residence permit requires makes the rent the application's true price. Beausoleil and Cap d'Ail sit one street across the French line at half the cost, which is precisely why they house half the principality's workforce.
Below the housing line the numbers surprise: the Monégasque daily economy is Riviera-normal where it wants to be, the Condamine market runs honest produce, the Carrefour tier prices like Nice, the lunch menu exists at 20 to 30 euros beside the starred theater, and the TER train makes the entire coast from Menton to Cannes a cheap commute. The flexes are what they are: the Casino square valet economy, the yacht-club tier, the Grand Prix week when every price triples and every terrace sells by the seat. The comfortable single life inside the principality assembles from 6,000 to 8,000 dollars with housing the dominant line, the nominal budget floor near 4,000 belongs mostly to those sleeping across the border, and the honest Monaco addition is the deposit itself: half a million resting in a local account, not spent but committed, as the price of the zero-tax address.
- Housing is the application: studios from 3,000 to 5,000 euros, one-bedrooms 5,000 to 9,000, purchases past 50,000 the square meter, and the mandatory twelve-month lease making rent the residence permit's true price; Beausoleil across the street runs half.
- The daily economy is Riviera-normal: the Condamine market, the Carrefour tier and the 20-to-30-euro lunch menu price like Nice; the legend lives upstairs at the starred and valet tier.
- Ride the TER coast: Menton to Cannes runs as one cheap commuter line, Nice airport sits 30 minutes by train or seven by helicopter, and the principality's bus-and-lift network makes the vertical city walkable.
- Count the committed capital: the half-million bank deposit stays yours but stays parked, Grand Prix week triples everything, and the zero-tax arithmetic only closes against housing honestly priced in.
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Visas & Entry
Monaco issues no visas of its own: entry runs on the Schengen framework administered by France, visa-free nationals take the standard 90 days, the principality functions as de facto Schengen territory with no border on the Moyenne Corniche, and a Monaco residence card lets third-country holders travel the Schengen Area without a C visa, a convenience written into the Franco-Monegasque arrangements.
Residence beyond three months runs on the carte de séjour, and the requirements are three, stated by the government plainly. Accommodation: property owned, a lease of at least twelve months, corporate housing where you are the beneficial owner, or certified free lodging with a close relative, all sized honestly for the household. Means: financial self-sufficiency evidenced by a Monaco bank's reference letter, salary, professional income or family support also qualifying; the law fixes no figure, and the banks price the letter in practice around 500,000 euros on deposit, with a million or more at some houses and for families. Character: clean records from every country of residence in the past five years, issued within three months, translated by sworn translators where needed. Non-EEA nationals must first obtain the French long-stay Type D visa marked for Monaco from the French consulate serving their residence, with a narrow in-country exception via the French Embassy in Monaco for those already lodged; EEA citizens skip the visa entirely. The Sûreté Publique interviews every applicant on background, funds and intentions, processing runs roughly 72 days for EEA and 85 for third-country files, and the fee is nominal. The ladder: the one-year temporary card renewed annually, the three-year ordinary card after three years, the ten-year privileged card after ten with genuine presence approaching half the year expected, and renewals at every tier verified against lived reality, bills, banking, the actual center of life. Working takes its own permissions, employment permits through the employer or business authorization through the economic administration, SARL capital from 15,000 euros and the government's consent to the activity itself. Citizenship remains sovereign discretion after a decade or more, with every other nationality renounced.
- Sequence the file correctly: lease first, bank second, visa third, application fourth; nothing proceeds without the accommodation, and the bank's due-diligence weeks belong in every timeline.
- Treat the deposit as the banks' price, not the law's: no statute names 500,000 euros; the reference letter is a private-banking product, thresholds vary by house and family size, and the money remains yours throughout.
- Non-EEA, start at the French consulate: the Type D visa marked for Monaco is the legal gateway under the 1963 convention, and arriving in Nice without it starts nothing.
- Prepare the interview as the application it is: the Sûreté Publique reads the CV, the wealth origins and the intentions; Monaco selects residents the way its banks select clients, and the file should read accordingly.
- Live the residence you claim: renewals check bills, banking and presence, the privileged card expects half the year, and treaty partners challenge paper residencies here more than anywhere; the address must be the life.
- French nationals, read the 1963 treaty first: France taxes its citizens in Monaco as if they never left, the single carve-out in the zero-tax arithmetic, and no structure changes it.
| Visa or permit | What it covers |
|---|---|
| Entry and the Schengen position | No Monegasque visas exist: Schengen rules via France govern entry, the 90-day window applies, no border interrupts the coast road, and the Monaco residence card doubles as a Schengen travel document for third-country holders. |
| The three requirements | Accommodation owned, leased twelve months or certified with family; self-sufficiency by a Monaco bank's reference letter, priced by the banks near 500,000 euros and often above; and clean five-year records, freshly issued and sworn-translated. |
| The French Type D first step | Non-EEA applicants obtain the long-stay visa marked for Monaco from the French consulate before anything else, a 4-to-8-week process under the 1963 convention, with a narrow in-country exception through the French Embassy in Monaco; EEA citizens apply directly. |
| The interview and the clock | The Sûreté Publique interviews every applicant on background, source of funds and intentions; processing averages 72 days for EEA and 85 for third-country files, and the CV with documented wealth origins is the real application. |
| The card ladder | One-year temporary cards renewed annually, the three-year ordinary card after three years, and the ten-year privileged card after ten expecting genuine presence near half the year; each transition is applied for, not automatic. |
| The genuine-residence test | Renewals verify that Monaco is actually the center of life, utilities, banking activity, daily texture; the tax address without the lived address is the single arrangement the principality systematically refuses. |
| Working and the long game | Employment needs permits through the employer, business needs government authorization with SARL capital from 15,000 euros, self-employment registers with the economic administration; citizenship stays sovereign, slow and single-nationality. |
Good to know: No DNV, no investment program; carte de séjour = accommodation (own/12-mo lease/family) + means (bank reference letter; NO legal minimum; banks price ~€500k, €1M+ common) + clean 5-yr records; non-EEA: French Type D FIRST (1963 convention; narrow in-country exception via French Embassy in Monaco); Sûreté interview; ~72/85 days; ladder 1yr×3 → 3yr → 10yr privilégié (~half-year presence); genuine-residence renewals enforced; French nationals taxed by France (1963); citizenship = sovereign, 10+ yrs, renunciation.
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Work & Legal
Monaco's professional culture is French Riviera formality at sovereign concentration: French carries law and administration, Italian and English flow through a resident population where actual Monégasques number under a quarter, presentation genuinely matters, the dress code is a professional instrument rather than an affectation, and discretion is the entire local currency in a two-square-kilometer city where everyone's banker knows everyone's lawyer. The economy runs on private banking and family offices, real estate at the world's ceiling, the SBM hospitality empire, a growing digital-and-events tier the government courts deliberately, and the daily tide of tens of thousands of French and Italian commuters who staff all of it from Beausoleil, Menton and Ventimiglia.
The legal lines: residents may work remotely for foreign clients freely, there being no income tax to evade; Monaco employment needs a work permit through the employer; and local business, including self-employment, requires government authorization of the activity itself through the economic administration, a genuine review rather than a registration, with SARL capital from 15,000 euros. The texture rewards the polished: relationships open doors that applications cannot, the Yacht Club and the gala calendar are networking infrastructure, punctuality and presentation are assumed, August belongs to the sea, and the Grand Prix week in May suspends ordinary professional life entirely, the office literally inside the circuit. Nice airport connects the world seven helicopter minutes away, the TER makes the coast one labor market, and the time zone holds Europe with the US East Coast arriving after lunch.
- Work the world from the zero-tax desk: foreign-client remote work from a Monaco residence is the arrangement the system was built for; local employment and business take their own permits and authorization.
- Dress as the instrument it is: presentation opens Monaco professionally, the smart-casual floor is higher than anywhere on the coast, and the gala-and-club calendar is networking infrastructure rather than decoration.
- Authorize before trading locally: the economic administration reviews the activity itself, SARL capital starts at 15,000 euros, and the government's consent is a genuine gate, not a stamp.
- Plan around the two calendars: Grand Prix week suspends ordinary life each May with the office inside the circuit, August belongs to the sea, and the shoulder months are when the principality actually works.
Good to know: Foreign-client remote work from residence = the designed arrangement (no income tax); local employment = permits via employer; local business/self-employment = government authorization of the activity (genuine review; SARL from €15k); presentation/discretion = the currency; GP week suspends May; commuter tide staffs everything.
Taxes
Monaco's tax system is the shortest in this index and the oldest of its kind: no personal income tax since 1869, with one nationality carved out by treaty, one superpower taxing its citizens anyway, and a French-aligned VAT running the daily economy.
| What applies | The rule in 2026 |
|---|---|
| The 1869 fact | No personal income tax at any level of income, no capital gains tax on individuals, no wealth tax, no property tax on Monaco homes; the arithmetic that built the resident population, unchanged for a century and a half. |
| The French exception | French nationals resident in Monaco are taxed by France as if they never left, under the 1963 bilateral convention; the single carve-out, absolute in practice, and the reason the principality's largest neighbor supplies commuters rather than residents. |
| Tax residence and the paper-address problem | Monaco issues residence certificates against genuine presence, and treaty partners challenge Monaco addresses harder than any others; the zero-rate only holds for those whose center of life demonstrably moved, exits and tie-breakers planned before the lease. |
| Inheritance and gifts | Free in the direct line and between spouses on Monaco-situs assets, with rates rising by distance of kinship to 16 percent for unrelated heirs; foreign assets follow their own jurisdictions, and the estate simplicity is half the appeal. |
| The business layer | Corporate profits tax at 25 percent applies only where more than a quarter of turnover arises outside Monaco, administrative-office regimes serve the family-office tier, and VAT runs French-aligned at 20 percent under the customs union. |
| The banking texture | Monaco participates in CRS exchange and the post-secrecy architecture; the offer is zero rates in the open, not silence, and the compliance file at account opening is the modern price of the letter. |
| Americans specifically | No US treaty and no totalization agreement, and citizenship-based taxation applies undiluted: US federal tax follows the American to the Rock, the zero local rate creates no foreign tax credit to offset it, and self-employment tax runs unshielded; Monaco works for Americans as lifestyle, not as arithmetic. |
| The home-country half | The move only closes when the departure jurisdiction agrees it happened: exit taxes, trailing rules and treaty tie-breakers decide the outcome, France polices the 1963 line, and the professionals who structure the departure before the arrival are the ones the zero rate actually reaches. |
Verified 21 August 2026: the absent personal income, capital-gains, wealth and property taxes; the 1963 French-national carve-out; direct-line inheritance exemption with kinship-graded rates; the 25-percent business profits tax on majority-external turnover; French-aligned VAT at 20 percent; CRS participation; and the absence of any US treaty or totalization agreement. General information, not tax advice.
Good to know: 0% income since 1869, 0 CGT/wealth/property; French nationals taxed by France (1963 convention; absolute); inheritance 0 direct line → 16% unrelated (Monaco-situs); corporate 25% only if >25% turnover external; VAT 20% French-aligned; CRS yes; NO US treaty/totalization (zero rate = no FTC offset; SE tax unshielded); for Americans it's lifestyle, not arithmetic; genuine-presence enforcement is the entire game.
Healthcare
Monaco healthcare runs at the standard the resident population would accept, which is to say among Europe's best: the Centre Hospitalier Princesse Grace anchors the principality with full acute, maternity and specialty services plus the Riviera's serious private clinics beside it, the Nice university hospital system sits twenty minutes down the coast as the tertiary ladder, and the French Riviera's medical density means every specialty exists within a taxi ride. Working residents affiliate with the Monegasque social funds, CAMTI for the self-employed and the salaried caisses for employees, reimbursing in the French pattern with supplements standard; non-working residents carry the comprehensive private insurance their cards require; and visitors use travel insurance against private billing priced like the address.
The texture is Riviera-professional: English, French and Italian flow through the medical economy, pharmacies run the French professional standard, dental and optical follow the French supplement pattern, and the health risks are the Mediterranean's gentle set, summer heat and sun discipline, the sea's ordinary respect, and a demographic reality that makes cardiology and longevity medicine local specialties. Emergencies answer at 112 or the principality's own 18, the fire-and-rescue service doubles as the ambulance corps with a heliport bridge to Nice for the gravest cases, and the summary is what the address implies: superb, seamless with France, and priced for people who insure properly.
- Match the cover to the card: the funds carry working residents, the required private policies carry everyone else, and the French-pattern supplement is the standard add-on either way.
- Use the coast as one system: the CHPG handles the principality, Nice's university hospitals carry the tertiary tier twenty minutes away, and the insurer's routing answer belongs in the arrival file.
- Visitors, insure for the address: private billing prices like Monaco, the care behind it is superb, and travel cover is the non-negotiable line.
- Live the gentle syllabus: summer heat and sun discipline, the sea's ordinary respect, and a medical economy whose local specialty is keeping its residents old; 112 answers everything instantly.
| Hospital | What to know |
|---|---|
| Centre Hospitalier Princesse Grace (CHPG) | The national hospital: full acute, maternity and specialty depth for a resident population that accepts nothing less, with a new hospital campus rising beside it. |
| The private clinic tier | Riviera-standard private medicine inside and beside the principality serving the insured directly, with the comfort tier the clientele expects. |
| CHU de Nice | The university-hospital ladder twenty minutes west: the tertiary and rarity tier, reached by road or the heliport bridge for the gravest cases. |
| The Riviera specialty lattice | Every specialty within a taxi ride along the coast, cardiology and longevity medicine as local strengths, and cross-border care seamless in the French pattern. |
| The funds and insurance | CAMTI and the salaried caisses reimburse working residents French-style with supplements standard; non-working residents hold the comprehensive private cover their cards require. |
| Emergency architecture | 112 and the local 18 reach the fire-and-rescue ambulance corps, the heliport bridges to Nice in minutes, and response times are what two square kilometers allow: immediate. |
Hospital list compiled 21 August 2026 and not yet confirmed against each facility directly. Treat as indicative and verify before relying on it.
Good to know: CHPG = national anchor (new campus rising); Nice CHU = tertiary ladder 20 min + heliport bridge; CAMTI/caisses reimburse French-style (supplements standard); non-working residents = required private cover; visitor billing prices like the address; 112/18 immediate; cardiology/longevity = local specialties.
Safety
Monaco's safety file is the index ceiling and the mechanism is visible: the principality runs the world's highest police-to-resident ratio, a camera lattice covering effectively every public meter, entrance-to-exit response times measured in seconds, and a security doctrine funded by the arithmetic that its residents are, collectively, the most concentrated theft target on earth and are nonetheless almost never stolen from. The US advisory holds Level 1, Exercise Normal Precautions, consular coverage running through Marseille, and the practical register is nearly empty: pickpocketing appears where crowds do, the station, the Casino gardens in high season, and above all Grand Prix week, when 200,000 visitors compress into two square kilometers and the professional lift teams tour in with them; car and watch crime exists at the margins the clientele implies; and violent crime against visitors is statistically negligible. Solo travelers of every description report total comfort at all hours, and the evening walk from Larvotto to the Rock is as benign as urban Europe offers.
The genuine cautions are contextual: the Grand Prix and gala weeks are the pickpocket calendar and the price calendar at once; the sea asks its ordinary Mediterranean respect off the Larvotto platforms; the Moyenne Corniche's hairpins reward passengers more than drivers; and summer heat on the vertical staircases is the principality's honest physical tax. Emergencies answer at 112 or the local 17 and 18, the police non-emergency desk functions like a concierge, and the honest summary is the one the apparatus purchases: the most policed, most watched, and by every available measure safest address in this index, where the security is not subtle because it is not meant to be.
- Read the apparatus as the guarantee it is: the world's densest police presence, blanket cameras and second-order response times protect the world's most concentrated wealth, and visitors inherit the umbrella entirely.
- Mind the event calendar, not the map: Grand Prix week and the gala season are the pickpocket high tide, the station and Casino gardens their venues, and the ordinary crowd discipline the entire answer.
- Let the watch travel carefully: the marginal crime that exists targets exactly what the address implies; the hotel safe and the unflashy default cover it.
- Respect the vertical city in summer: the staircases and the heat are the honest physical tax, the public lifts are the answer, and the sea off Larvotto asks the Mediterranean's ordinary respect.
- Drive the Corniches as a passenger sport: the hairpins reward the view over the wheel, parking is the principality's scarcest commodity, and the TER from Nice deletes the entire problem.
- Know 112, 17 and 18: the numbers answer in seconds in a two-kilometer state, the police desk functions like a concierge, and STEP through Marseille takes five minutes for an address that will never need it.
Official travel advisories
| Government | Current position |
|---|---|
| United States | Level 1, Exercise Normal Precautions, with consular coverage through Marseille: the floor tier, the file's practical content confined to event-crowd petty theft.travel.state.gov → |
| Canada | Normal security precautions: pickpocketing where crowds concentrate, the Grand Prix compression named, and the ordinary-awareness register.travel.gc.ca → |
| United Kingdom | No overall advisory against travel; event-season crowd notes and the standard coastal vigilance language carry what substance exists.gov.uk → |
| Australia | Normal safety precautions with the petty-theft-in-crowds register and the summer-heat note as the practical content.smartraveller.gov.au → |
| US Consulate General Marseille | The consular contact for Americans in Monaco; enroll in STEP for the rare notices. Place Varian Fry, Marseille; +33 1 43 12 22 22.fr.usembassy.gov → |
Advisory positions verified 21 August 2026: the US Level 1 with Marseille consular coverage, the event-season petty-theft register as the file's entire practical content, and the security apparatus, police density, camera lattice, response times, that makes the principality this index's ceiling. Open the sources before travelling.
Good to know: US L1 (Marseille coverage); index ceiling 94: world-max police ratio + blanket cameras + second-order response; register = event-crowd pickpockets (GP week = high tide) + marginal watch crime, full stop; real cautions = GP compression, vertical-city heat, Corniche hairpins, sea's ordinary respect; 112/17/18.
Climate
Monaco runs one of Europe's finest microclimates: a Mediterranean amphitheater backed by the Maritime Alps that shelter it from the north, delivering 300 sunny days, winters of 10 to 14 degrees where a coat is a choice and café terraces never close, and summers of 25 to 30 with sea humidity softened by the evening breeze off the water. Rain concentrates in short autumn bursts, October and November delivering theatrical downpours that scrub the air and leave, and the famous light, the one the Belle Époque painted and the brochures still sell, is a daily fact from the Rock at golden hour. The working year: April through June is the prize, warm, bright and pre-crowd except for the Grand Prix's May takeover, when the principality becomes a circuit and plans should too; September and October run the sea at its warmest with the crowds released; July and August deliver full summer, the Larvotto platforms, the long evenings, and the heat on the staircases that makes the public lifts civic infrastructure; and the winter is the quiet luxury, mild, bright, uncrowded, the Riviera's original season for exactly this reason. The kit is a light jacket and sunglasses most of the year, the vertical city rewards real shoes, and the single most useful climate fact is the shelter itself: when the mistral rakes Provence and the fog sits on Milan, the amphitheater usually holds its sun.
| Season | What to expect |
|---|---|
| Spring, April to June | The prize: warm bright pre-crowd weeks bracketing the Grand Prix's May takeover, the sea warming, and the terrace season at full function. |
| Summer, July and August | 25-to-30 with sea humidity and evening breeze, the Larvotto platforms and long evenings, and the staircase heat that makes the public lifts the answer. |
| Autumn, September to November | The warmest sea and released crowds through October, then the short theatrical rain bursts that scrub the air and leave. |
| Winter, December to March | Ten-to-fourteen, bright and mild in the amphitheater's shelter: the Riviera's original season, uncrowded and terrace-open throughout. |
Good to know: 300 sunny days in the amphitheater's shelter; May = GP takeover (plan around); autumn rain arrives theatrically and leaves; winter is the original Riviera season; the lifts are civic infrastructure against the vertical heat.
Culture & Customs
Monégasque culture is Riviera formality wrapped around a genuine small nation: beneath the international veneer live fewer than 10,000 actual Monégasques with their own Ligurian-rooted language, their protected housing, their Sainte-Dévote devotion each January when the boat burns in the harbor, and a loyalty to the Prince that is civic rather than decorative, the Grimaldis having kept this rock sovereign for seven centuries. Around them, a resident nation of French, Italians, British and the world's arrivals runs on polished cosmopolitan code: presentation matters and is checked at doors, discretion is the social contract of a two-kilometer city, French carries the state with Italian and English flowing beside it, and the social calendar, the Rose Ball, the Yacht Show, the gala circuit, is infrastructure rather than spectacle.
The codes are Franco-formal: greetings kept, Monsieur and Madame until invited otherwise, dress floors enforced from the Casino's jackets to the club's standards, tipping French-modest atop included service, and beach attire confined to the beach with fines behind the custom. The calendar peaks on the Grand Prix's May weekend when the nation becomes a circuit, National Day on November 19 when the principality turns out for the Prince, Sainte-Dévote's burning boat in January, and the summer's open-air cinema and concert season on the Rock. The table runs Riviera-Ligurian, barbagiuan fritters as the national bite, socca and pissaladière from the coast's shared kitchen, and the Condamine market as the honest morning. The professional who dresses to the room, keeps the discretion, learns the Sainte-Dévote story and treats the Monégasques as the nation they are rather than the staff of a resort has understood the place: a real country wearing a legend, and particular about the difference.
- Dress to the room, always: presentation is checked at doors from the Casino to the clubs, the smart floor is higher than anywhere on the coast, and beach attire beyond the beach draws actual fines.
- Practice the discretion contract: in two square kilometers everyone's banker knows everyone's lawyer, reputation moves at harbor speed, and the quiet professional brand is the only durable one.
- Honor the real nation: fewer than 10,000 Monégasques keep their language, their housing and their Prince; Sainte-Dévote's burning boat and the November 19 National Day are theirs, and respecting that marks the resident from the tourist.
- Ride the calendar deliberately: Grand Prix week is the spectacle and the price surge at once, the gala circuit is networking infrastructure, and the winter is the principality at its most personal.
- Eat below the legend: barbagiuan and socca from the shared Ligurian kitchen, the Condamine market mornings, and the 20-euro lunch a street below the starred theater.
- Keep the Franco-formal codes: Monsieur and Madame until invited, greetings on entry, French-modest tipping atop included service, and the handshake culture of the coast.
